Article: Princess Cut vs Cushion Cut: How to Choose Between Two Classics
Princess Cut vs Cushion Cut: How to Choose Between Two Classics
Two Shapes, Very Different Results
At first glance, princess cut and cushion cut diamonds can seem similar — both are squarish, both look striking in a solitaire setting, and both appeal to buyers who want the presence of a larger-looking stone without going for a round. But spend five minutes comparing them side by side and the differences become immediately clear.
Princess is precise, modern, angular. Cushion is softer, more vintage, with a warmth that round and oval can't quite replicate. Choosing between them is less about which is objectively better and more about which one speaks to the person who'll be wearing it.
This guide breaks down both cuts in detail: how they differ optically, how the 4Cs apply differently to each, and which settings and hand types tend to suit each shape best.
What Is a Princess Cut Diamond?
The princess cut was developed in the 1960s and 1970s, refined to capture as much brilliance as possible in a square shape. It has sharp, pointed corners and a brilliant-cut facet pattern — meaning its facets are designed to maximise the return of white light, similar to a round brilliant.
When you look at a princess cut from above, you see a perfect square (or very slightly rectangular) outline. From the side, it has a deep, inverted pyramid shape — more of the carat weight sits below the girdle than in many other cuts, which is why a one-carat princess often looks slightly smaller face-up than a one-carat round.
Key characteristics of princess cut diamonds:
- Sharp 90-degree corners — visually modern and architectural
- Brilliant-cut faceting — high sparkle, strong light return
- More carat weight in the depth, so face-up size can be smaller than equivalent-carat rounds
- Corners are a vulnerability — prone to chipping if unprotected
What Is a Cushion Cut Diamond?
The cushion cut is significantly older — its origins trace back to the old mine cut of the 18th and 19th centuries, which was the standard brilliant cut before modern manufacturing precision existed. The contemporary cushion cut is a refined descendant of that era: a squarish or rectangular shape with gently rounded corners (hence the “pillow” or “cushion” name) and a facet pattern that produces a distinctly different kind of sparkle.
There are two main subtypes that buyers encounter today:
Standard cushion cut — larger facets, chunky sparkle, strong flashes of colour (fire). This is the more classic look, beloved for its antique feel.
Cushion modified brilliant (sometimes called a “crushed ice” cushion) — smaller facets arranged in a different pattern, producing a scintillating, crushed-ice appearance with more white light and less fire. This is a more contemporary look.
When shopping, you'll often see these listed differently on certificates, and the difference in appearance can be dramatic. If you're buying online without seeing the stone, this distinction matters.
How They Differ Optically
This is the most important practical difference. Princess cut and cushion cut have genuinely different looks when they catch the light:
Princess cut produces sharp, bright flashes — crisp, geometric sparkle. Under diffused indoor lighting (like an office), it can appear slightly less brilliant than a round, but under direct light it's dazzling. The X-pattern you see when looking straight down into the stone is a distinctive characteristic some buyers love and others find distracting.
Cushion cut (standard) produces large, chunky flashes with strong fire — those coloured light dispersion effects that look particularly beautiful in candlelight or warm restaurant lighting. The romantic, glowing quality of a classic cushion cut is what drives its enduring popularity.
Cushion modified brilliant (crushed ice) produces a scintillating shimmer rather than large flashes — it's busier and more modern-looking, closer to an oval in character but with the squarish outline of a cushion.
The 4Cs: How They Apply Differently
Cut
Here's a critical difference: GIA does not issue a cut grade for princess cut or cushion cut diamonds. Cut grade exists only for round brilliants. This means you're evaluating cut quality visually, using length-to-width ratios, depth percentages, and table percentages as proxies — and ideally by looking at the stone itself.
For princess cuts, look for:
L:W ratio of 1.00–1.05 for a square look
Depth: 64–75%
Table: 62–72%
For cushion cuts, look for:
L:W ratio of 1.00–1.05 for square; 1.10–1.20 for slightly rectangular
Depth: 58–68%
Table: 55–65%
These are guidelines, not rules — the only reliable test of cut quality is looking at the actual stone.
Colour
Both shapes show colour more than rounds, because the larger facets of non-round cuts don't mask colour as effectively. That said, they differ slightly:
Princess cut — the corners can concentrate colour, particularly in lower grades. For white gold or platinum settings, we typically recommend D–H colour range. G or H is usually the sweet spot for value.
Cushion cut — similarly colour-visible, but the warmth of I or J colour can actually be appealing in yellow gold settings, where a slightly warmer stone looks intentional and beautiful. In platinum or white gold, stick to G–H or above.
Clarity
Both shapes are more forgiving on clarity than step cuts (emerald, asscher), but less forgiving than rounds.
Princess cut — VS2 or SI1 is typically eye-clean. Avoid inclusions near the corners, which are both more visible and structurally vulnerable.
Cushion cut — VS2 to SI1 is the typical range. Crushed ice cushions are more forgiving of minor inclusions because the busy facet pattern masks them; classic cushions with larger facets are slightly less forgiving.
Carat and Face-Up Size
This is where the two shapes diverge most practically:
Princess cut carries more weight below the girdle (deeper stone), so a 1ct princess looks noticeably smaller face-up than a 1ct round. Many buyers are surprised by this. A 1ct princess measures roughly 5.5mm across; a 1ct round measures about 6.5mm.
Cushion cut is shallower on average and has a larger face-up appearance than princess for the same carat weight. A well-cut 1ct cushion can measure 5.8–6.0mm across, depending on the specific cutting style.
For buyers who want visual presence on a budget, cushion often gives more apparent size per carat than princess.
Durability: An Important Consideration
Princess cut diamonds have four sharp, pointed corners. This is their defining aesthetic feature — and also their main vulnerability. Diamond is the hardest natural material, but it's not indestructible. The corners of a princess cut are susceptible to chipping if the ring receives a sharp blow at the right angle.
For this reason, princess cuts must be set with corner-protecting prongs (V-prongs or L-prongs). A four-prong setting that places prongs at each corner provides protection; a bezel fully encases the stone. Never leave a princess cut corner unprotected.
Cushion cuts, with their rounded corners, do not have this vulnerability. They're a naturally more durable shape and can be worn in a wider range of setting styles without concern.
Setting Recommendations
Princess cut works best in:
- Solitaire with V-prong or corner-protecting L-prong settings
- Channel-set side stones (the geometric lines complement the sharp corners beautifully)
- Bezel settings (fully protective and very modern)
- Two-stone (toi et moi) pairing with a contrasting shape like pear or oval
Cushion cut works best in:
- Halo settings — a halo amplifies the cushion's rounded outline and creates a vintage-luxe look that's extremely popular
- Classic four or six-prong solitaire
- Three-stone settings (cushion flanked by rounds or trapezoids)
- Bezel or half-bezel
Which Hand Type Suits Each Shape?
This is a useful but imperfect guide — ultimately the best shape is the one the wearer is drawn to, regardless of finger type.
That said: princess cut tends to flatter wider, shorter fingers by adding length optically, similar to the effect of an oval. Its angular lines also suit hands with strong, defined features.
Cushion cut is universally flattering and is one of the few shapes that suits all finger types comfortably. The softness of the rounded corners reads as feminine without being as obviously retro as an asscher or emerald.
Lab-Grown Options for Both Shapes
Both princess and cushion cuts are widely available in lab-grown diamonds, and both shapes offer the same quality spread as natural stones. The price difference (typically 60–85% less for lab-grown) makes it significantly easier to step up in carat weight or colour and clarity grade.
For clients who want a statement stone — a 2ct cushion or a 1.5ct princess — lab-grown is often what makes that size financially viable without compromise on quality. Learn more in our guide on lab-grown vs natural diamonds.
Our Verdict: Which Should You Choose?
Choose princess cut if your partner loves geometric, contemporary, architectural aesthetics. If they prefer clean lines, modern jewellery design, and crisp sparkle over romantic glow, princess is usually the right call. Bear in mind the corner vulnerability and ensure the setting protects them.
Choose cushion cut if your partner gravitates toward vintage, romantic, or heirloom-inspired styles. If they love the look of antique jewellery or want a stone with warmth and character alongside brilliance, cushion is exceptionally hard to fault. It's also the safer choice for active wearers, since the rounded corners have no structural vulnerabilities.
When in doubt: come in and see both in person. Under real lighting, with real diamonds, the choice often becomes immediately obvious.
Visit us at 176 Orchard Rd, #03-05 The Centrepoint, Singapore 238843 to compare both shapes with no obligation.