Asscher Cut Diamonds Singapore: The Step-Cut Stone Making a Comeback

The Asscher cut is one of the most architecturally distinctive diamond shapes in existence. Square with deeply cut corners, it belongs to the step-cut family — the same family as the emerald cut — and produces a completely different kind of brilliance from round or oval diamonds. Where brilliant-cut diamonds scatter light in a fireworks display, the Asscher produces a mesmerising hall-of-mirrors effect: concentric squares of reflected light that draw the eye inward. If you have ever looked into an Asscher cut diamond and felt like you could fall in, you understand why it has a devoted following.

The History of the Asscher Cut

The Asscher cut was created in 1902 by the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam. It was the signature cut of the Art Deco era — its geometric precision and angular lines perfectly reflected the design sensibility of the 1920s. The original Asscher cut had 58 facets. The Royal Asscher cut, a modern evolution with 74 facets, was introduced in 2001 and produces even greater depth and brilliance.

After decades of relative obscurity, the Asscher cut has been experiencing a quiet revival. A new generation of buyers drawn to vintage aesthetics, architectural design, and stones that look genuinely different from the round brilliant are rediscovering it. In Singapore, we are seeing increasing interest from clients who specifically want a diamond that does not look like everyone else's.

Asscher vs Emerald Cut: What's the Difference?

Both are step cuts with long, parallel facets and cropped corners. The primary difference is shape: the emerald cut is rectangular, while the Asscher cut is square (or very nearly so, with a length-to-width ratio typically between 1.00 and 1.05). The Asscher's higher crown and smaller table also give it a slightly deeper, more dramatic appearance than the emerald cut, and the concentric square pattern is more pronounced.

If you are drawn to the emerald cut's clean geometry but prefer a more compact, square shape, the Asscher is the natural choice. If you prefer the elongated elegance of a rectangular stone, the emerald cut is your answer.

What to Look for in an Asscher Cut Diamond

Clarity matters more here than with brilliant cuts. Because the Asscher's large, open facets act like windows into the stone, inclusions are significantly more visible than in a round brilliant where the faceting pattern conceals them. We recommend VS2 clarity or better for an Asscher cut. VVS or internally flawless stones produce the most dramatic hall-of-mirrors effect.

Colour is also more visible. The step-cut faceting retains colour more than brilliant cuts. We recommend H colour or better for an Asscher in white gold or platinum; G or better for the cleanest appearance. In yellow gold settings, a slightly lower colour grade is acceptable as the metal's warmth masks any tint.

Cut proportions are everything. The depth, table percentage, and symmetry of the cut determine the quality of the hall-of-mirrors effect. A well-cut Asscher has perfectly concentric squares when viewed from above. Poor symmetry breaks this pattern. At Diamond Ateliers, we source Asscher cuts with a focus on cut quality rather than simply chasing carat weight.

Setting Styles for Asscher Cuts

The Asscher's geometric nature is most beautifully served by settings that respect its lines. Our most popular pairings:

Plain high polish solitaire: The cleanest possible presentation. A high polish band in platinum or white gold lets the stone's architecture speak entirely for itself.

Art Deco-inspired setting: Milgrain edges, geometric filigree on the shoulders, and a bezel or half-bezel — all reference the era the Asscher was born in and feel perfectly matched to the stone.

Pavé shoulders: Adding micro-pavé along the shoulders frames the Asscher beautifully and adds brilliance without competing with the stone's stepped facets.

East-west orientation: An Asscher set east-west across the finger creates a striking, highly architectural look that reads almost like a piece of contemporary jewellery art.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Asscher cut rare in Singapore?

It is less common than round brilliants, ovals, and emerald cuts — which is precisely why clients who want something distinctive choose it. Finding a well-cut Asscher with strong clarity requires more sourcing effort than standard brilliant-cut shapes, which is something we navigate on behalf of our clients.

Does an Asscher cut look smaller than a round of the same carat?

Yes, slightly. The Asscher's depth means more of the diamond's weight is below the surface, resulting in a smaller face-up diameter than a round brilliant of the same carat. However, the visual impact of the Asscher — particularly its depth and the hall-of-mirrors effect — more than compensates for this in most clients' perception.

Is the Asscher cut good for everyday wear?

Yes. The cropped corners of the Asscher make it significantly more robust than pointed shapes like marquises or pears, which are vulnerable to chipping at their tips. The Asscher's geometry is sturdy and well-suited to daily wear, particularly in a bezel or four-claw setting that protects the corners.