What Is an Asscher Cut Diamond?
The Asscher cut is a square step-cut diamond with deeply cropped corners that produce a near-octagonal outline. It was developed by the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam in 1902, and it became the defining diamond shape of the Art Deco period. A century later, it remains one of the most architecturally interesting cuts available — and one of the most underappreciated.
Asscher Cut vs Emerald Cut: What's the Difference?
The Asscher cut and the emerald cut are both step cuts — they share the same parallel, rectangular facet arrangement that produces broad flashes of light rather than the scattered brilliance of a brilliant cut. The key differences:
Shape: The emerald cut is rectangular (length-to-width ratio typically 1.3:1 to 1.5:1). The Asscher cut is square (length-to-width ratio 1:1 to 1.05:1). The Asscher's square proportions and deeply cropped corners give it its characteristic octagonal outline.
Depth: The Asscher cut is typically deeper than an emerald cut of equivalent carat weight, which means it appears slightly smaller face-up per carat. What it gains in exchange is an extraordinary visual depth — the step facets in an Asscher create a distinctive "X" or windmill pattern at the centre of the stone that is unique to this cut.
Presence: The Asscher reads as more compact and focused than the elongated emerald cut. Where the emerald cut draws the eye along the finger, the Asscher holds the gaze at a single concentrated point.
The Standard Asscher vs the Royal Asscher
The original Asscher cut (now sometimes called the standard Asscher) has 58 facets. The Royal Asscher — developed by the same company in 2001 — has 74 facets and produces noticeably more brilliance and fire while retaining the step-cut aesthetic. The Royal Asscher is a trademarked cut available only from authorised cutters. Both versions are beautiful; the Royal Asscher commands a premium but offers meaningfully more light performance.
Choosing an Asscher Cut: Grades That Matter
Clarity
Like the emerald cut, the Asscher's large, open table and step facets make inclusions significantly more visible than in a brilliant cut. VS2 is the minimum we recommend for an Asscher cut; VS1 is preferable for stones above 1.2ct. SI1 Asschers can be eye-clean but must be assessed stone by stone — never assumed from the grade alone. The clarity plot on the GIA certificate shows where inclusions are located; an inclusion near the centre of the table is far more visible than one near the girdle edge.
Colour
The Asscher's step facets pool colour in the stone's body, making warmth more visible than in a brilliant cut. In a white gold or platinum setting, G colour is a practical minimum; F or better produces a noticeably icy appearance that suits the shape beautifully. In a yellow gold setting, H is generally acceptable as the warm metal compensates for any warmth in the stone.
Cut Proportions
GIA does not assign a cut grade to Asscher cuts. Assess proportions directly: look for a table percentage of 60–68% and depth percentage of 60–67%. The crown should be relatively high and the pavilion deep to produce the characteristic windmill light pattern. Symmetry and polish should both be Excellent or Very Good.
The Asscher's Aesthetic Identity
The Asscher cut is inseparable from Art Deco design — the geometric severity of the shape, its precise symmetry, and its windmill light pattern are all expressions of the 1920s and 1930s aesthetic that elevated angular geometry and machine precision to an art form. Wearing an Asscher cut is, in part, a nod to that history.
This makes the Asscher the right choice for people drawn to vintage or antique aesthetics, to geometric design, or to jewellery that has a clear historical point of reference. It suits clients who want their ring to feel like it has always existed and always will — not a trend, but a timeless form.
In a contemporary platinum solitaire, the Asscher reads as completely current. In a yellow gold setting with milgrain detail, it reads as genuinely antique. It is one of the most versatile shapes in terms of how radically the setting can change its period identity.
Setting Styles
Solitaire: The Asscher solitaire is a very confident, considered choice. The octagonal outline is dramatic enough to stand alone. A bezel solitaire — the Asscher set in a square or octagonal metal frame — creates a very graphic, modern composition.
Three-stone: An Asscher centre flanked by two trapezoid or baguette side stones produces a symmetric, formally structured ring with strong Art Deco references. This is one of the most classic three-stone configurations.
Halo: A square halo of pavé diamonds around an Asscher creates a dramatic effect — the halo emphasises the octagonal silhouette while adding sparkle. This is a very elaborate composition that works best for clients who want maximum visual presence.
Talk to Us
Asscher cut diamonds are less commonly stocked than round brilliants, and finding the right combination of proportions and grades requires sourcing from the market rather than picking from a standard selection. At Diamond Ateliers, we source Asscher cuts to order and can advise on every dimension of the choice.
Visit us at 176 Orchard Rd, #03-05 The Centrepoint, Singapore 238843. Consultations are by appointment and without obligation.