Is a princess cut diamond more affordable than a round brilliant?

Yes, typically. Princess cuts yield more usable diamond from rough crystal than round cuts, so they are generally priced 10-25% lower per carat than round brilliants of equivalent quality.

What prong setting is best for a princess cut diamond?

V-prongs at each of the four corners are the best choice. They protect the most vulnerable points of the diamond while maintaining a clean, elegant appearance. Standard round prongs placed on the sides of the stone do not protect the corners adequately.

Does a princess cut diamond sparkle as much as a round brilliant?

Yes, more than most other fancy shapes. The princess cut is a brilliant cut and approaches the optical performance of a round brilliant. It sparkles considerably more than step-cut alternatives like emerald or Asscher cuts.

Princess Cut Diamond Engagement Rings: A Complete Guide

The princess cut is the most popular fancy shape diamond in the world. It is second in overall popularity only to the round brilliant, and among non-round diamonds it has no close competitor. Understanding why — and what to watch for when buying one — is worth the time of anyone seriously considering a square or rectangular diamond.

What Is a Princess Cut Diamond?

The princess cut is a square brilliant cut with pointed corners. It was developed in the 1960s and refined into its current form in the 1980s. Unlike the step-cut Asscher or emerald, the princess cut is a brilliant cut: its facets are arranged to maximise light return and scintillation, giving it a sparkle more comparable to a round brilliant than to its square counterparts.

The princess cut typically has between 50 and 58 facets, depending on the specific cutting style used. Its pointed corners make it distinctive — they are also its most structurally vulnerable area.

Why It's So Popular

The princess cut achieves something unusual: it is simultaneously bold and brilliant. Its square silhouette is architectural and modern, yet it sparkles with a brilliance approaching that of a round diamond. It also offers better yield from rough diamond crystals than round cuts, which means less material is discarded during cutting and princess cuts are typically priced lower per carat than comparable round brilliants.

For buyers who want a square or near-square diamond with high sparkle output, the princess cut is the obvious first choice.

Length-to-Width Ratio

Princess cuts range from perfectly square (1.0 ratio) to noticeably rectangular (1.05 to 1.10 and above). Most buyers prefer ratios between 1.0 and 1.05 for a balanced square appearance. Ratios above 1.10 produce a distinctly rectangular stone that some prefer and others find less satisfying than choosing an emerald or radiant cut intentionally.

The ratio is not reported separately on GIA certificates for princess cuts, but it can be calculated from the length and width measurements listed in the grading report.

Corner Protection Is Essential

The four pointed corners of a princess cut are the most structurally fragile part of the stone. A sharp knock against a hard surface can chip or fracture a corner that is left unprotected.

This makes setting choice critical. Princess cuts should be set with prongs or claws that cover each corner specifically — a V-prong at each corner provides the best protection while maintaining an elegant appearance. Bezel settings that encircle the entire stone offer the highest level of protection. Standard rounded prongs that sit on the sides of the stone rather than the corners are not adequate for a princess cut.

Cut Quality

GIA assigns overall cut grades to round brilliant diamonds only. Princess cuts do not receive an overall cut grade on GIA certificates. The Polish and Symmetry grades are listed, but these address facet-level execution rather than overall optical performance.

Assessment of a princess cut’s actual light performance must be done visually. Look for even brightness across the table, consistent sparkle patterns in both diffuse and direct lighting, and no significant dark areas toward the corners or centre of the stone.

Colour in Princess Cuts

Colour is more visible in the corners of a princess cut than in the centre of the stone. The corners can show warmth even when the face-up appearance of the table looks near-colourless. For this reason, G colour or better is generally recommended for princess cuts in white metal settings.

In yellow gold settings, H and I colour grades can be attractive choices — the warmth of the diamond complements the warmth of the metal, and the cost savings are meaningful.

Princess Cuts in Si Dian Zuan Sets

The princess cut’s square geometry works particularly well in Si Dian Zuan sets that favour a modern, architectural aesthetic. A princess cut engagement ring pairs naturally with channel-set or princess-cut side stones in a wedding band, and can be complemented by geometric designs in the bangle, earrings, and necklace.

The design challenge with a princess cut Si Dian Zuan set is maintaining cohesion: the sharp lines and angles of the cut call for complementary pieces that have a similar linear quality, rather than the softer, more organic shapes that work with round brilliants.

What to Look for When Buying

Because GIA does not grade princess cut performance, buyers should look at the stone in person rather than relying on the certificate alone. Assess the stone under different lighting conditions: under overhead diffuse light, the princess cut should show balanced sparkle across its surface. Under a single point light source, it should produce sharp, bright reflections.

Avoid stones with significant dark zones at the centre (indicating a steep pavilion) or at the corners (indicating poor corner cutting). The symmetry of the chevron facet pattern on the pavilion — visible when looking through the table from below — should be consistent on all four sides.