Cushion Cut Diamonds: The Romantic’s Complete Guide

Of all the diamond shapes available today, the cushion cut occupies a unique position: it is simultaneously antique and thoroughly contemporary, soft and brilliant, traditional and on-trend. It is no accident that the cushion has been one of the most popular diamond shapes in bespoke jewellery for the past decade — it flatters a wide range of styles and hands, and it sparkles in a way that is genuinely different from a round brilliant.

A Brief History

The cushion cut has its roots in the 18th and 19th centuries, when it was known as the old mine cut — the dominant diamond shape before the round brilliant was developed in the early 20th century. Old mine cuts were cut by hand for candlelight environments: they had larger facets, a higher crown, a smaller table, and a distinctive chunky, romantic sparkle.

The modern cushion cut retains the square-to-rectangular outline with rounded corners, but is now cut with the precision of contemporary faceting technology. The result is a shape that carries the warmth and character of antique cuts with the brightness of modern cutting standards.

Cushion Modified vs Cushion Brilliant

On a GIA grading report, cushion cuts are classified as either cushion modified brilliant or cushion brilliant (sometimes called a classic cushion or antique cushion). The difference lies in the facet arrangement beneath the girdle.

The cushion modified brilliant has an additional row of facets that create a distinctive sparkle pattern — sometimes described as a “crushed ice” look: a glittering, dispersed play of light that looks spectacular in motion. The cushion brilliant has a more structured, larger-facet pattern with deeper flashes of light and more noticeable contrast — often described as chunkier, warmer, and more romantic.

Neither is superior. They appeal to different aesthetics. If you love the look of a ring that shimmers like scattered light on water, lean towards modified. If you love deep, bold flashes and warmth, lean towards cushion brilliant or an antique-inspired cut.

Cushion Cut Proportions: What to Look For

Cushion cuts are available from nearly square (length-to-width ratio close to 1.00) to more rectangular (ratios of 1.15 and above). A ratio of 1.00 to 1.05 gives a square appearance. A ratio of 1.10 to 1.20 gives an elongated, rectangular cushion that slims the finger and creates a different visual impression entirely. Ratios above 1.20 begin to approach the territory of a radiant or emerald cut.

Most people find the sweet spot for a square cushion between 1.00 and 1.08, and for a rectangular cushion between 1.10 and 1.20. Beyond that, personal preference should guide the decision.

Cushion Cut and Colour

Cushion cuts tend to retain colour more than round brilliants, particularly in the body of the stone. This is because their larger facets allow the eye to see deeper into the stone, making any warmth in the colour grade more visible. As a general guide, we recommend H colour or above in a cushion cut to ensure a near-colourless appearance face-up. Some clients deliberately choose warmer colours (I or J) in yellow gold settings, where the warmth of the stone and the metal complement each other beautifully.

Setting Styles That Suit a Cushion

The cushion cut is one of the most versatile shapes for setting design. It suits a simple four-prong solitaire, a halo (where a single row of smaller diamonds surrounds the centre stone, amplifying its apparent size), a double halo for maximum drama, and a bezel for a modern, protective look. Its rounded corners mean it is less vulnerable to chipping than a princess cut, making it a practical choice as well as a beautiful one.

Who Is a Cushion Cut For?

The cushion cut tends to appeal to clients who are drawn to romance, history, and warmth over strict precision and geometry. It is the opposite of a sharp, angular emerald cut — where the emerald is composed and architectural, the cushion is soft, full, and inviting. It suits a wide range of hand shapes and flatters both delicate and more substantial fingers.

If you find yourself consistently drawn to rings that feel warm and romantic rather than sleek and modern, the cushion cut is almost certainly worth a closer look.

At Diamond Ateliers, we carry a curated selection of cushion cuts across a range of ratios and facet styles. Come in and see them side by side — the difference between a crushed ice and a classic cushion is one you truly need to see in person.